The Lure of Lake Okeechobee
Story and photos by Patti Powers, Florida Cracker Photography
(as first published by Airboating Magazine Jan/Feb 2018 issue)
We walked across an old rickety wooden bridge above a small cut at Harney Pond Canal and made our way to the observation deck on the opposite side. A backdrop of blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds gracefully descended upon the still waters of the Lake. My first impression of the grand Lake was one of awe and respect. But, as I stared in wonder at my surroundings, a feeling of regret washed over me. As a lifelong resident of Florida, I had not, until then, seen this impressive body of water.

It wasn't until a year or so later my exploration of Lake Okeechobee began. As a novice on the Lake, every smell, sight and sound was a new and remarkable experience, from a drop of water on a lily pad to the cry of an osprey flying overhead. The marsh quickly became a place of sanctuary from the stressful workweek left behind in Bradenton.

Having fished the Lake for nearly 50 years, my husband's considerable knowledge of the Lake's geography was an asset. Over the years, Bob schooled me on locations with names like the Monkey Box, Cochran's Pass, the Spoil Islands, Moonshine Bay and the Bathtub, where each place was located in relation to the deeper water, and which fish were most likely to be found there.

When we started coming to the Lake together, the days were spent on the water and the nights in our RV, which was parked at one of the local RV parks in the small fishing community of Lakeport. Our love of the area and the Lake soon motivated us to find a more permanent residence. A couple of years ago we purchased a home in Lakeport near the rim canal.

Most of the marsh is on the west side of the Lake. There are a couple of boat ramps in Lakeport from which one can directly access the Lake. Our go-to ramp is at Harney Pond Canal. The other option is to put in at the rim canal and enter the Lake through a set of locks.

Going through the locks in an airboat can be tricky and we often refer to this process as a controlled crash. Right before entering the lock's gate, we kill the motor and wait for the boat to drift to one side or the other. Grabbing ahold of the long ropes hanging from a row of flexible piping along the tall concrete wall, we pull ourselves clear of the gate behind us and motion for the lock tender to close the gate. Depending on the water levels in the canal and Lake, when the opposite gate is opened, the boat either rises or drops. For me, it took some time to get used to the locks, but now, it is a convenience that I appreciate.

Early morning departures from the ramp at Harney Pond Canal usually are rewarded with inspiring sunrises. On clear days, cloud formations are duplicated in reflections on the smooth, glass-like water. Not too far south of the Harney Pond navigational markers and a little west is what we refer to as "The Island." Constructed and meticulously maintained by one of Lakeport's locals, the Island has a rustic, but well-built cabin and an inviting picnic area. This is a popular spot for airboaters to shoot the breeze and, on most weekends, boats can be found resting on the embankment surrounding the Island.

Behind the Island is a sprawling marsh where skinny water trails, sometimes muddy, weave through an open area and taper through more dense growth before reaching the old Moore Haven Canal (also called the "9-mile cut"). Traveling east from here, the canal intersects with another trail at the Monkey Box. I don't know why it's called the Monkey Box, but if one sits quietly long enough, perhaps beached on the narrow stretch of land marked by the memorials of past adventurers, the calls of the little black coots do sound like monkeys.

Depending on water levels and vegetation, parts of the trail from the Monkey Box to Moonshine Bay are wide enough for boats to pass. But be prepared to detour into the thick bulrush if you encounter another boat. Bob loves telling the story of the time when, unexpectedly, we came face-to-face with a bass boat moving quickly through the shallow water. Never even realizing the treacherous situation we were in, I safely powered us to the right, close to the tall weeds and continued on. Bob cursed and motioned for me to stop and then commended me for my quick reaction. He let me continue to drive the boat the rest of the day. A reward, I suppose.

Moonshine Bay, a sizeable body of open water, is yet another peaceful place on the Lake. Tucked away from the main part of the Lake, but accessible from many different trails, Moonshine Bay is a fantastic place for spying birds like the snail kite and the purple moorhen. Venture off onto the less traveled side trails, you're sure to scare up a flock of birds, including ibis, egrets and spoonbills. And fields of yellow flowers, the American Lotus, can be found around here. It is an amazing sight to see when the flowers are in bloom.

During one of our runs through Moonshine Bay, we came across a float plane that was anchored. Doors open and no one around, we carefully approached the craft. We didn't know what to think. Sure, we had seen similar planes practicing their landing techniques on the water and retreating back into the sky, but this vision was, to say the least, perplexing. After tracking down the owner through the plane's tail numbers, we learned the pilot was picked up by another airboater for his own adventure on the Lake.

Protected by the marsh on either side, the trail from Moonshine Bay to Cochran's Pass is typically calm, even in windy weather. When the sun is shining, fish can be seen bedding in the sandy bottom. A gator might be seen abruptly leaving the trail. Near Cochran's Pass, a gateway to the Lake's deeper water, Pelicans floating by the edge of the trail are not at all bothered by the noise of the airboat.

Glades, Okeechobee, Martin, Palm Beach and Hendry counties all converge somewhere in the center of Lake Okeechobee. Spanning over 730 square miles, the Lake's average depth is only 9 feet. In the deep water, large boats cross the Lake entering and exiting from the St. Lucie Canal to the east and the Caloosahatchee River to the west. Once, while fishing near the Caloosahatchee access channel, we had the pleasure of riding one of the larger boat's wake.
This past summer we experienced extremely low water levels in the Lake. Some of the trails were covered with thick mud that made for some slick sliding. Turtles and gators struggled to escape the muck in fear of bearing the weight of the boat on their backs. As soon as the late summer rains arrived, water levels in the Lake rose, reaching nearly 17 feet and rendering some of the trails unrecognizable.

Passing through the locks with these high water levels became an adventure in and of itself. Entering the gates on the rim canal side was not unusual. But when the lock tender raised the gate on the Lake side, the rush of the water lifted us nearly four feet. As we left the locks, I held my breath while watching the top of the cage just barely clear the bottom of the gate.

South of Cochran's pass is Observation Island. Here there is a small elevated cabin and plenty of land for airboats to gather around an American Flag flying proudly above this camp. And farther to the south, is Roland Martin's Marina, in the town of Clewiston.

Following the marsh northwest from Cochran's Pass around Bird Island, one may wind up back in the Old Moore Haven Canal and the entrance to the Bathtub. Or, cross the open water to the Spoil Islands. Both the Bathtub and the Spoil Islands are well known summer fishing holes. On a good day, one can catch the limit of bluegill and shellcracker, one right after the other.

There is so much to see on the Lake. I never tire of scanning the water for the ancient creatures that have survived the constant environmental turmoil and the state's annual hunts, the alligator. Did you know manatees share the Lake with the other creatures? It's true! If you pay close attention, you may see the large round ripple made by the Manatee's flat tail as it swims by you. One year we observed an entire pod of manatees near Harney Pond Canal.

A stunning sunset welcomes us as we idle back up the canal to the ramp. While taking the time to recall our favorite moments of the long day, color fills the evening sky. The old wooden bridge is now gone. And, while change is constant and expected, like the water levels in the Lake, it is the lure of Lake Okeechobee that will change those who experience it.

Be sure to visit Florida Cracker Photography ( http://www.FloridaCrackerPhotography.com) to see more unique images from around Florida.